Is Propaganda Played-Out in Brand Communications?
Saks Fifth Avenue teamed up with Shepard Fairey to launch a Soviet Propaganda-inspired Spring campaign. Fairey, best known for his Obama “HOPE” poster, pulls directly from Constructivist Art to create a daring new look for the high-end retailer. With a bold black-and-red palette, statuesque models and authoritative headlines, the campaign certainly presents a new look for Saks, but we’ve seen this look before — many times before. We can’t help but question, is this a brilliant new approach or a design cop-out?

IS PROPAGANDA PLAYED-OUT?
Originating from the exciting and original design of Constructivism, Saks Fifth Avenue is not the first to reference this style. Fairey’s work is known for this influence, but has the Saks work crossed the line from reference to reproduction? In recent years, the Soviet-inspired motif has been a go-to trend for designers, so much so that it has been used almost as a complete packaged set of design practices to which a designer can simply plug in the client’s content. The look of this style has proven to be effective and appealing, but the original context is completely detached; its overuse has caused it to lose its effect and instead just speaks for a lack of creativity. Kind of like Pop Art ripoffs. Do we really want to see another Warhol Marilyn Monroe imitation? We at Mlicki want to see fresh brand design instead.
That said, it is worth mentioning that the typical Saks Fifth Avenue customer may not be so overexposed to this Soviet look as the branding world is. And the timing of the Fairey collaboration couldn’t be better, considering his recent exposure during the election. Maybe this campaign is just the push Saks needs to keep their visual edge in the retail market.
FULFILLING A BRAND PROMISE?
Regardless of whether people see the propaganda look as cliché or cutting edge, what’s most important is this: Does it fulfill the brand promise? We say no. “The Saks brand promise has always been to ‘expertly deliver personalized style,’” said Denise Incandela, vice president for Saks Direct, the online and catalog division of the New York-based department store. Since when did communism encourage individuality? Was the retailer aware of these implications or just following a trend? Design trends often create visual impact in the short term, but without advancement of the brand promise, they lack lasting power. The new Saks campaign has proven to be a visually stunning piece, but it goes against its brand promise. It’s a new look for Saks, but not necessarily a relevant one.
THE JOKE’S ON THE CUSTOMER
Has design’s underground sweetheart completely sold out? Fairey is so well known as an underground artist against “corporate America,” it may be possible that he is purposefully using the big-name brand to create images that make them appear fascist. But most puzzling is the fact that Saks is going along with this inside joke. Surely, by presenting themselves as “selling machines,” aren’t they just poking fun at their own customers for buying into that machine? Or maybe Saks is just completely clueless about the effect of using propaganda on its brand image, with the simple intent of a producing a catalog that looks cool.
So what do you think? Is this campaign sure to make sales or is it just selling out?
SOURCES
http://knowledge.wharton.upenn.edu/printer_friendly.cfm?articleid=1096
12 Comments so far
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This is a really interesting analysis. At first glance, I liked the design a lot (not knowing some of the background into the roots and culture of the design). That said, a few thoughts:
1. The Sax brand identity feels completely out of place with the overall look of the design. It’s almost as if it’s just crammed into the corner of the catalog as an afterthought.
2. There’s a bigger, more interesting cultural shift happening here over the last 20 years. At the last winter Olympics, a US figure skater was seen skating on ice in a CCCP sweatshirt. As a brand, the Soviet Union has transformed from the “Evil Empire” into a counter-culture design trend. There are a ton of implications to that shift.
I’m gonna have to agree with Dimitri on this one. The whole thing looks forced. Out of place. Stretching a bit too hard to appeal with a different demographic that it’s completely foreign. I see the brainstorming session going something like this:
———-
Saks: We need something new. Something fresh. Something “insert buzz word”. Most people think we just cater to old fuddy duddys.
(intern walks into room holding coffee and wearing screen printed hoodie)
Saks: Did you remember the Sweet n’Low this ti… hey, what’s that on your shirt?
Intern: This? I dunno, it’s hoodie I got half off at ‘Buckle’ down at the mall.
Saks: Would you consider that cool? Hip? Dare I say, trendy? Almost so trendy, that it’s anti-trendy?
Intern: Yeah, I guess so. It was only 20 bucks.
Saks: Perfect. Lets do something like that. We need to connect with this younger generation. Somebody get the ‘artist’ on the line.
—————
Definitely agree with you guys about wanting to see something fresh out of people in the creative community. At first, say 1993, I though Shepard Fairey was doing something different, something wildly creative. By letting other people spread his art. And bastardize his creations however they wanted. But now it seems like an overdone joke. A joke on himself. I mean have you seen most of the “art” he’s “created”? Alotta people would beg to differ as to whether or not it’s actually “original” or even all that creative. Judge for yourself.
http://www.art-for-a-change.com/Obey/index.htm
I have a hard time believing that the majority of Saks customers are going to be 100% comfortable with the Soviet theme. And while visually stunning, I do not see this campaign advancing the brand.
I think this is actually a great campaign. From a design standpoint propaganda posters are very effective.
I don’t think that people need to take the connotations of the design that seriously. Symbols are always changing, being remade, re-used. . . good designs are good designs.
What would people think if Saks used old American propaganda art? Would we still have the same objections?
Saks is prob a strong enough brand to not depend on a single campaign to make or break them, merely they need a campaign to attract attention. Which this does.
Is it beautiful? Yes.
Is it original? Not really.
Is it buzz worthy? Definitely.
Kudos to Saks for brushing off the cobwebs and taking some risks.
Seems like Nordstrom has the hold on hip young people with money, and this campaign definitely gives them a new attraction to that customer base.
The tote bags are actually quite sharp http://www.notcot.com/images/2009/03/thesaks1.jpg They sell for $20 and a portion of the proceeds goes to HOPE- Helping Other People Everywhere.
I wouldn’t say that symbols necessarily change meaning, but using these symbols, or appropriated imagery as the case is here, in conjunction with new art, new mediums and new surroundings can certainly give the symbol new meaning.
The point of propaganda posters, as I’ve seen, is to make the viewer feel empowered and proud to be part of a larger picture. So, with this empowering feeling, they are more productive towards the cause the poster advertises for. In this case, Shep uses it for consumerism — “Feel big, feel strong, do the right thing, buy our stuff.”
So, does the message work? Does the ad campaign convey that message? I certainly feel it does. With bright, grabbing imagery and design, it immediately draws your attention and you want to read more. Hell, I kind of want a slouchy bag and I’m a dude.
So, good for Saks. The fact that this isn’t the first blog or article I’ve read on their ad campaign means it’s certainly working. It’s good to see an artist be paid for their designs, rather than ripped off ala Urban Outfitters.
As for attacks on Faireys character, art and etc., I think it’s only fair you read the other side of the argument here:
http://www.supertouchart.com/2009/02/02/editorial-the-medium-is-the-message-shepard-fairey-and-the-art-of-appropriation/
My biggest objection the campaign is that it doesn’t seem to align very well the Saks brand. For me this causes the campaign to seem like an unauthentic ploy for shock value and publicity.
Although the branding and design talking heads are analyzing the work, I’m not sure mac-jockeys are the primary demographic for Saks.
Do they have witty graphic tees there? Russian text optional.
I saw this in the store and really liked it! I took one of their catalogs back just to keep it. It’s so well done, it’s more like a coffee table book than a catalog.
The design is good but it’s not ‘Saks’. This constructivist style is one of those things that seems like a good idea for a company every few years, regardless of whether or not they are well suited to it, not unlike Communism.
just another big company using an artist for the steam they have at the moment.
will a typical saks customer “get it”? …im not sure saks “gets it” but they and other companies will quickly jump on the bandwagon, run it into the ground leaving shepard’s “art” nothing more than a cliche design trend. …which is fine by me anyway cause its garbage.
Although at first glance aesthetically pleasing, I find the design somewhat abrasive and a bit too ‘pop-art’ for my tastes…and definitely not what I imagine when I think of Saks Fifth Avenue. Maybe they are trying to be edgy and new, but I find it to land a bit flat. Are they trying to reach out to a younger audience instead of their tried and true older crowd? I don’t think anyone in my demographic (20s, female, modest salary) could realistically walk into a Saks and spend any money or time there anyway… a sale item for over $700? Pass.
I have been looking looking around for this kind of information. Will you post some more in future? I’ll be grateful if you will.